Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

Liu Shuxue Yu Yuxiu Assistant Researcher  State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering  Dalian University of Technology 《中国海洋工程》1995,(1)

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.  相似文献   

Hydrothermal Vent Geology and Biology at Earth’s Fastest Spreading Rates     

Richard N. Hey  Gary J. Massoth  Robert C. Vrijenhoek  Peter A. Rona  John Lupton  David A. Butterfield 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(2):137-153

Earth’s fastest present seafloor spreading occurs along the East Pacific Rise near 31°–32° S. Two of the major hydrothermal plume areas discovered during a 1998 multidisciplinary geophysical/hydrothermal investigation of these mid-ocean ridge axes were explored during a 1999 Alvin expedition. Both occur in recently eruptive areas where shallow collapse structures mark the neovolcanic axis. The 31° S vent area occurs in a broad linear zone of collapses and fractures coalescing into an axial summit trough. The 32° S vent area has been volcanically repaved by a more recent eruption, with non-linear collapses that have not yet coalesced. Both sites occur in highly inflated areas, near local inflation peaks, which is the best segment-scale predictor of hydrothermal activity at these superfast spreading rates (150 mm/yr).  相似文献   

胡安·德富卡洋脊因代沃段热液黑烟囱体成矿物质来源:硫同位素的限制     

姚会强  周怀阳  彭晓彤  何高文 《海洋学报(英文版)》2010,29(5):25-33

选取胡安·德富卡洋脊(Juan de Fuca Ridge,JDFR)因代沃(Endeavour)段的17个热液黑烟囱体样品对其中的硫同位素进行分析测定,讨论了因代沃段热液活动区内黑烟囱体成矿的物质来源、将硫同位素数据与已发表的热液流体及硫化物数据耦合,并结合前人的成果得到如下认识:(1)因代沃段硫化物的硫同位素组成与其他无沉积物覆盖的洋脊硫化物硫同位素组成相似,然而其相比于南胡安·德富卡洋脊(South Juan de Fuca Ridge,SJFR)硫化物亏损重同位素;(2)结合前人研究成果,如果SJFR硫化物的硫全部来自基底玄武岩的淋洗与海水中的硫酸盐,那么因代沃段硫化物的硫可能有1%~3%来自沉积物的贡献,故提出因代沃段成矿系统中的硫来源主要来自基底玄武岩,同时伴随有少量海水硫酸盐来源及沉积物来源的硫加入;(3)将硫同位素数据与已发表的热液流体及硫化物数据进行耦合发现热液流体中的沉积物信号与硫化物中的硫可能来自不同的源,并提出沉积物端元可能位于下渗区。  相似文献   

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France     

E.J. Anthony  F. Levoy 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):73-100

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.  相似文献   

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3  

李晓亮  俞聿修  赵凤亚  鲁桂荣 《海洋学报》2007,29(1):139-149

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.  相似文献   

Tectonics of a fast spreading center: A Deep-Tow and sea beam survey on the East Pacific rise at 19°30′ S     

John D. Bicknell  Jean-Christophe Sempere  Ken C. Macdonald  P. J. Fox 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1987,9(1):25-45

Sea Beam and Deep-Tow were used in a tectonic investigation of the fast-spreading (151 mm yr^-1) East Pacific Rise (EPR) at 19°30 S. Detailed surveys were conducted at the EPR axis and at the Brunhes/Matuyama magnetic reversal boundary, while four long traverses (the longest 96 km) surveyed the rise flanks. Faulting accounts for the vast majority of the relief. Both inward and outward facing fault scarps appear in almost equal numbers, and they form the horsts and grabens which compose the abyssal hills. This mechanism for abyssal hill formation differs from that observed at slow and intermediate spreading rates where abyssal hills are formed by back-tilted inward facing normal faults or by volcanic bow-forms. At 19°30 S, systematic back tilting of fault blocks is not observed, and volcanic constructional relief is a short wavelength signal (less than a few hundred meters) superimposed upon the dominant faulted structure (wavelength 2–8 km). Active faulting is confined to within approximately 5–8 km of the rise axis. In terms of frequency, more faulting occurs at fast spreading rates than at slow. The half extension rate due to faulting is 4.1 mm yr^-1 at 19°30 S versus 1.6 mm yr^-1 in the FAMOUS area on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge (MAR). Both spreading and horizontal extension are asymmetric at 19°30 S, and both are greater on the east flank of the rise axis. The fault density observed at 19°30 S is not constant, and zones with very high fault density follow zones with very little faulting. Three mechanisms are proposed which might account for these observations. In the first, faults are buried episodically by massive eruptions which flow more than 5–8 km from the spreading axis, beyond the outer boundary of the active fault zone. This is the least favored mechanism as there is no evidence that lavas which flow that far off axis are sufficiently thick to bury 50–150 m high fault scarps. In the second mechanism, the rate of faulting is reduced during major episodes of volcanism due to changes in the near axis thermal structure associated with swelling of the axial magma chamber. Thus the variation in fault spacing is caused by alternate episodes of faulting and volcanism. In the third mechanism, the rate of faulting may be constant (down to a time scale of decades), but the locus of faulting shifts relative to the axis. A master fault forms near the axis and takes up most of the strain release until the fault or fault set is transported into lithosphere which is sufficiently thick so that the faults become locked. At this point, the locus of faulting shifts to the thinnest, weakest lithosphere near the axis, and the cycle repeats.  相似文献   

The Agulhas Ridge, South Atlantic: The Peculiar Structure of a Fracture Zone     

Gabriele Uenzelmann-Neben  Karsten Gohl 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2004,25(3-4):305-319

The Agulhas Ridge is a prominent topographic feature that parallels the Agulhas-Falkland Fracture Zone (AFFZ). Seismic reflection and wide angle/refraction data have led to the classification of this feature as a transverse ridge. Changes in spreading rate and direction associated with ridge jumps, combined with asymmetric spreading within the Agulhas Basin, modified the stress field across the fracture zone. Moreover, passing the Agulhas Ridge’s location between 80 and 69 Ma, the Bouvet and Shona Hotspots may have supplied excess material to this part of the AFFZ thus altering the ridge’s structure. The low crustal velocities and overthickened crust of the northern Agulhas Ridge segment indicate a possible continental affinity that suggests it may be formed by a small continental sliver, which was severed off the Maurice Ewing Bank during the opening of the South Atlantic. In early Oligocene times the Agulhas Ridge was tectono-magmatically reactivated, as documented by the presence of basement highs disturbing and disrupting the sedimentary column in the Cape Basin. We consider the Discovery Hotspot, which distributes plume material southwards across the AAFZ, as a source for the magmatic material.  相似文献   

Oceanographic influences on seabirds and cetaceans of the eastern tropical Pacific: A review     

Lisa T. Ballance  Robert L. Pitman  Paul C. Fiedler 《Progress in Oceanography》2006,69(2-4):360

This paper is part of a comprehensive review of the oceanography of the eastern tropical Pacific, the oceanic region centered on the eastern Pacific warm pool, but also including the equatorial cold tongue and equatorial current system, and summarizes what is known about oceanographic influences on seabirds and cetaceans there. The eastern tropical Pacific supports on the order of 50 species of seabirds and 30 species of cetaceans as regular residents; these include four endemic species, the world’s largest populations for several others, three endemic sub-species, and a multi-species community that is relatively unique to this ecosystem. Three of the meso-scale physical features of the region are particularly significant to seabirds and cetaceans: the Costa Rica Dome for blue whales and short-beaked common dolphins, the Equatorial Front for planktivorous seabirds, and the countercurrent thermocline ridge for flocking seabirds that associate with mixed-species schools of spotted and spinner dolphins and yellowfin tuna. A few qualitative studies of meso- to macro-scale distribution patterns have indicated that some seabirds and cetaceans have species-specific preferences for surface currents. More common are associations with distinct water masses; these relationships have been quantified for a number of species using several different analytical methods. The mechanisms underlying tropical species–habitat relationships are not well understood, in contrast to a number of higher-latitude systems. This may be due to the fact that physical variables have been used as proxies for prey abundance and distribution in species–habitat research in the eastern tropical Pacific.Though seasonal and interannual patterns tend to be complex, species–habitat relationships appear to remain relatively stable over time, and distribution patterns co-vary with patterns of preferred habitat for a number of species. The interactions between seasonal and interannual variation in oceanographic conditions with seasonal patterns in the biology of seabirds and cetaceans may account for some of the complexity in species–habitat relationship patterns.Little work has been done to investigate effects of El Niño-Southern Oscillation cycles on cetaceans, and results of the few studies focusing on oceanic seabirds are complex and not easy to interpret. Although much has been made of the detrimental effects of El Niño events on apex predators, more research is needed to understand the magnitude, and even direction, of these effects on seabirds and cetaceans in space and time.  相似文献   

Geophysical Evidence of a Relict Oceanic Crust in the Southwestern Scotia Sea     

Lodolo  Emanuele  Coren  Franco  Schreider  Anatoly A.  Ceccone  Giulio 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1997,19(5):439-450

The southwestern part of the Scotia Sea, at the corner of the Shackleton Fracture Zone with the South Scotia Ridge has been investigated, combining marine magnetic profiles, multichannel seismic reflection data, and satellite-derived gravity anomaly data. From the integrated analysis of data, we identified the presence of the oldest part of the crust in this sector, which tentative age is older than anomaly C10 (28.7 Ma). The area is surrounded by structural features clearly imaged by seismic data, which correspond to gravity lows in the satellite-derived map, and presents a rhomboid-shaped geometry. Along its southern boundary, structural features related to convergence and possible incipient subduction beneath the continental South Scotia Ridge have been evidenced from the seismic profile. We interpret this area, now located at the edge of the south-western Scotia Sea, as a relict of ocean-like crust formed during an earlier, possibly diffuse and disorganized episode of spreading at the first onset of the Drake Passage opening. The successive episode of organized seafloor spreading responsible for the opening of the Drake Passage that definitively separated southern South America from the Antarctic Peninsula, instigated ridge-push forces that can account for the subduction-related structures found along the western part of the South Scotia Ridge. This seafloor accretion phase occurred from 27 to about 10 Ma, when spreading stopped in the western Scotia Sea Ridge, as resulted from the identification of the marine magnetic anomalies.  相似文献   

台湾以东海区磁异常及磁条带研究     

梁瑞才  高爱国  郑彦鹏  刘焱光  裴彦良 《海洋科学进展》2003,21(3):291-297

资料显示,在整个台湾以东海区内磁异常几乎全为负磁异常,磁异常分块现象明显。通过对本海区的磁力资料进行分析和研究,表明本海区的地磁异常表现为明显的条带状异常特征。由于受板块差异性运动的影响,以加瓜海脊为界,东西两侧具有不同的磁条带方向,在加瓜海脊以东,磁条带为NW-SE向(120°),而在加瓜海脊以西则为近东西向(80°)。加瓜脊以西地区的扩张时间为45～38Ma,相当于19～16号磁条带;而加瓜脊以东地区的扩张时间为40～35Ma,相当于17～13号磁条带。加瓜脊以西的磁条带相对于以东的磁条带要老,由此推断出加瓜脊以西相对于东侧发生了北向位移。  相似文献